Luxury Tiny Homes
Log Cabin FAQ’s and Expert Advice
Frequently Asked Questions
Below are some of the most frequently asked questions related to Luxury Tiny Homes, including our products, services, delivery, and quality.
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General Questions
FAQs
Only for tiny homes sized 25sq meters & over. See link for more details. Please contact us to liaise with our in-house architect who specialises in these types of projects.
We only use shingles.
Scandinavian pine & spruce timber.
Yes, we have our own electricians, who have worked for us for years, we never outsource work.
Yes, absolutely! At Luxury Tiny Homes, we specialise in customising Tiny Homes to fit your unique needs and lifestyle. Whether it's adjusting the floor plan, selecting your preferred materials and finishes, or incorporating specific features like energy-efficient appliances, solar panels, or custom-built furniture, we work closely with you to create a home that suits you perfectly. No two Tiny Homes are the same, and we’re committed to helping you design a space that’s both functional and personal. Let us know your ideas, and we’ll bring them to life!
This rarely happens, but still in this case you just need to contact us and we will place your missing/damaged items very soon without delay.
Yes, our Tiny Homes are built to last a lifetime! We use high-quality, durable materials to ensure long-lasting performance. For the exterior, we use maintenance-free composite cladding, which is resistant to weathering and requires minimal upkeep. Additionally, we incorporate PVC fascia and soffits, which are also maintenance-free and highly durable, ensuring your home stays looking great without the need for frequent repairs. From the foundation to the roof, every part of our Tiny Homes is designed for longevity and resilience. With proper care, your Tiny Home will provide comfort and security for decades to come.
No, here is the insurance company that we recommend to insure our products – http://www.brittoninsurance.ie
A log cabin and a luxury tiny home are not the same, although they share similarities. A log cabin typically refers to a rustic, wooden structure, often built using traditional logs and designed for a more natural, countryside feel. They are commonly used as holiday homes, garden retreats, or even permanent residences with a cosy, traditional aesthetic.
On the other hand, a luxury tiny home is a modern, high-end version of compact living. Our luxury tiny homes are built using solid Scandinavian spruce logs for the 'skeleton' or structure, ensuring strength and durability. These homes prioritise smart design, high-quality materials, and innovative features such as energy efficiency, state-of-the-art appliances, and bespoke interiors. Unlike traditional log cabins, luxury tiny homes often incorporate contemporary architectural styles, sleek finishes, and custom-built solutions to maximize space and comfort.
Why Is It Important?
Bases and Foundations
A proper and sound foundation is a deciding factor for the safety and longevity of your tiny home. Only level, properly squared-off foundations will be capable of taking the load of your tiny home for a trouble-free installation.
Faulty foundations will definitely result in out-of-shape walls. Doors and windows will be difficult to open and close.
The perimeter of the foundation should be no less than the perimeter of the outside walls of the tiny home and ideally should extend at least 5cms around the perimeter of the base of the tiny home.
Step by step on a non-insulated base
- Cut the 3×2 treated timbers to the perimeter of the tiny home.
- Place around the slab with the 2-inch side up.
Staple/tack DPC underneath the 3×2 treated timbers allowing 3 inches to overhang outside. - Screw the timbers together, ensuring they are level and square.
- Fix the 3×2 treated timber to the concrete with express nails or concrete screws (these are not supplied). Space them at 4-600mm apart.
- Turn the DPC plastic up and over on the outside. NOTE: At this stage, we would recommend building the tiny home as floor joists can be done when the unit is watertight.
- Roll out DPM plastic.
- Decide which way you want your flooring to run, fix the battens in the opposite direction with concrete screws or express nails (these are not supplied).
- Nail down your T&G flooring and skirt around the edges.
TIPS:
Spend time on your base timber ensuring its level and square; if not, it will cause a lot of problems with the build otherwise.
Seal the joint between the DPC concrete & DPC and first tiny home. This can also be done by using a kicker and timber underneath (this kicker is not supplied; please see the insulation base sketch).
Flooring gets dirty very quickly; use covers/cardboard until varnished/stained.
NON-INSULATED BASE
INSULATED BASE
Step by step on an insulated base
- 3×2 treated timber on the edge around the perimeter of the unit with DPC underneath to form the base. Allow 105mm of the DPC to overhang the outside the base for now.
- Square and level the 3×2 timber base, then fix it down to the concrete using concrete fixers/screws (these are not included). Space these roughly 4-600mm apart. NOTE: If the base is not correctly square and level, it will have irreversible problems during build. TAKE YOUR TIME and have it right.
- Nail the 2×1 treated timbers on top of the 3×2 treated timbers.
Roll out the DPM inside the base. - Place the 2×1 treated timbers on the DPM plastic from right to left or back to front spaced 500mm apart. Make sure all 2×1 are 90mm back from 3×2 on the inside.
- Place the 3×2 timbers into the base in the opposite direction of 2×1 treated timbers. These will be cut tight and fixed to your outside 3×2 with the 2×1 on top every 400mm.
- Once fixed down, the DPC can be pulled up and over on the outside of the base. Drill out vent holes on the corners of the base; bigger tiny homes need more vents on the sides. NOTE: At this stage, it’s advisable to build the tiny home as the following can be done after the unit is watertight. It also means you can hide any wires required for sockets/switches.
- Insulation can be fitted in between the flooring joists.
- OSB can now be fitted.
Finished flooring can now be fitted. If using timber click or PVC click, underlay is to be used first.
OPTIONAL: kicker & 6×1 (not supplied)
The reason we say optional is that some people get creative at this stage. Basically, what you’re trying to achieve is covering the joint between concrete and DPC and throwing/kicking the water from the tiny home wall away from the base.
TIPS:
Use slate for packing base if low rather than timber.
Use a builders line to check for dips/humps in base.
Ensure concrete slab is higher than FGL so water can’t get underneath your DPM.
Insulating Your Roof
Roofing
Step by Step on Insulating your roof
- Cut the T&G roofing boards plumb and straight across the roof.
- Staple/nail breathable felt on roof.
- Cut the 3×2 Timbers rafters spaced at 600mm centres across the roof. NOTE: Cut all 4 gable rafters with plumb cut top and bottom. Keep a plumb cut on the bottom and square at top for the rest , this gives you a channel to run wires before insulation.
- Cut four of the 6×1 Timbers with plumb cuts across the top and the bottom to be the exact size of your 3×2 rafters . Nail/screw flush with top of your 3×2 rafters.
- Fit the 7×1 facia boards , up stand on the facia will be in line with the 2×1 + plywood to the outside corner of facia (see pic)
- Fit your insulation in between the rafters, keep the insulation 150mm back from facia and gable rafters. This void can now have vent holes drilled, (4 low and 4 high )
- Nail the 2×1 timbers tight to the back of facia board , from this space your lats are every 300mm running up the roof cutting them off flush with 6x1s on the gables. NOTE: If your roof is over 2.4 place the lats on the work centre of the joining sheets.
- Cover the roof with the plywood .
- Cover the roof with the mineral felt allowing it to overhang by 50mm.
- Shingle and ridge cap roof.
- After painting/treating barges fit down on top of shingles
TIPS:
*Cutting T&G , measure up 1.5 inches from the bottom of the T&G , chalk a line, tack a timber on the line and use as a runner for your circular saw.
*make a guide for your facia by cutting two of the 2x1s at 5inchs and one at 7inches hold all 3 flush at one end and screw together. Then simply hold on rafter and bring facia up to hit underneath of 7inches of the 2×1
*mineral felt , on the 4 corners of the roof measure up 950mm from the facia , chalk/pull line keep the top of your felt to the line .
*shingles , first row is a double row. Put the top edge of the shingle down in line with your felt , take this row across the roof . Come back to where you stated but this Time start with half a shingle with the hex edges following the line of the first shingle and felt. 4 x nails per shingle, blob of glue over each nail
*ridges are created from the flats (rectangular) shingles. Each rectangular shingle is cut into 3 ridges buy continuing factory made cut. Fold over ridge and lap 30mm over dotted line on shingle.
INSULATED ROOF
